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Montenidoli In The Wine Press!

Tanzer's Wine Cellar

Issue 163: July/August 2012 > Tuscany Part 1: Chianti, Vino Nobile and Supertuscans>


By Ian D'Agata

2011 Montenidoli Canaiuolo Rosato Toscana -- 90
($24) (100% canaiolo nero): Very pale pink. Sour cherry, raspberry and yellow apple on the perfumed nose. Juicy and a touch sweet, with bright acidity giving a cool quality to the medicinal flavors of red cherry, violet and fresh herbs. Finishes slightly tart and a bit youthfully clenched, but with good length. Canaiolo nero can make excellent rosati, and this is a fine example.

2010 Montenidoli Colorino Rosso Toscana -- 91
($22) (12.5% alcohol): Almost inky ruby. Black cherry, blackberry jam and camphor on the impressively perfumed nose. Fruity and sweetly spicy, with fresh dark fruit flavors framed by lively acidity and smooth tannins. This suave midweight finishes bright and long, with no presence of the unripe-cabernet-like greenness that is typical of colorino. This extremely impressive wine is a testament to owner Elisabetta Fagiuoli's talents as a winemaker.

2009 Montenidoli Il Garrulo Chianti Colli Senesi -- 90
($22) (14% alcohol): Good deep red. Pretty aromas of redcurrant, fresh herbs and flint. Bright and fresh, showing a restrained sweetness and lovely inner-mouth aromatic character to the spicy red fruit flavors framed by lively but harmonious acidity. The bright finish features lively tannins and very good length. Excellent Chianti made in the old way, with white grapes. Another rare example of very good Chianti Colli Senesi, a DOC that Italian producers have not invested in (I for one do not believe that having created a San Gimignano Rosso category helped anybody at all).

2009 Montenidoli Vernaccia di San Gimignano Fiore -- 92
($27) Pale straw-yellow with a golden tinge. Bright citrus and mineral aromas are complicated by mint, white pepper and a whiff of quince. Bright and fresh on entry, then richer and deeper in the middle, with ripe citrus, pear, floral and mineral flavors lingering impressively at the back. This outstanding, almost dry, riesling-like vernaccia will age for another six to eight years effortlessly.

2009 Montenidoli Vernaccia di San Gimignano Tradizionale -- 92
($22) Dark straw-yellow. Intense ripe apple, pear, almond and herbal nuances soar from the glass. Rich and smooth on the palate, with chewy flavors similar to the aromas, and a lovely mineral tang at the back. I like this wine's concentrated and refreshing saline note on the finish. A major winner.

2007 Montenidoli Il Templare -- 88
($30) Bright straw-yellow. Citrus, dill, and hazelnut on the lively nose. Fresh and bright in the mouth, with creamy apple and pear flavors complemented by hints of marzipan and wet stone. Finishes long and bright, with an herbal nuance and a saline zippiness.

2007 Montenidoli Vernaccia di San Gimignano Carato -- 89
($38) Dark straw-gold. Almond, hazelnut and vanilla on the oak-dominated nose. Then rich and creamy on the palate, with ripe apple and pear flavors complemented by caramel and herbal nuances. Finishes thick and oaky, with very good length. Those who enjoy spicy, butterscotchy oak will rate this higher than I have.

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