Montenidoli In The Wine Press!
Issue 163: July/August 2012 >
Tuscany Part 1: Chianti, Vino Nobile and Supertuscans>
By Ian D'Agata
2011 Montenidoli Canaiuolo Rosato Toscana
($24) (100% canaiolo nero): Very pale pink. Sour cherry,
raspberry and yellow apple on the perfumed nose. Juicy and a touch sweet, with
bright acidity giving a cool quality to the medicinal flavors of red cherry,
violet and fresh herbs. Finishes slightly tart and a bit youthfully clenched,
but with good length. Canaiolo nero can make excellent rosati, and this is a
2010 Montenidoli Colorino Rosso Toscana -- 91
($22) (12.5% alcohol): Almost inky ruby. Black cherry, blackberry jam and
camphor on the impressively perfumed nose. Fruity and sweetly spicy, with fresh
dark fruit flavors framed by lively acidity and smooth tannins. This suave
midweight finishes bright and long, with no presence of the
unripe-cabernet-like greenness that is typical of colorino. This extremely
impressive wine is a testament to owner Elisabetta Fagiuoli's talents as a
2009 Montenidoli Il Garrulo Chianti Colli Senesi --
($22) (14% alcohol): Good deep red. Pretty aromas of redcurrant,
fresh herbs and flint. Bright and fresh, showing a restrained sweetness and
lovely inner-mouth aromatic character to the spicy red fruit flavors framed by
lively but harmonious acidity. The bright finish features lively tannins and
very good length. Excellent Chianti made in the old way, with white grapes.
Another rare example of very good Chianti Colli Senesi, a DOC that Italian
producers have not invested in (I for one do not believe that having created a
San Gimignano Rosso category helped anybody at all).
Montenidoli Vernaccia di San Gimignano Fiore -- 92
straw-yellow with a golden tinge. Bright citrus and mineral aromas are
complicated by mint, white pepper and a whiff of quince. Bright and fresh on
entry, then richer and deeper in the middle, with ripe citrus, pear, floral and
mineral flavors lingering impressively at the back. This outstanding, almost
dry, riesling-like vernaccia will age for another six to eight years
2009 Montenidoli Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Tradizionale -- 92
($22) Dark straw-yellow. Intense ripe apple, pear,
almond and herbal nuances soar from the glass. Rich and smooth on the palate,
with chewy flavors similar to the aromas, and a lovely mineral tang at the
back. I like this wine's concentrated and refreshing saline note on the finish.
A major winner.
2007 Montenidoli Il Templare -- 88
Bright straw-yellow. Citrus, dill, and hazelnut on the lively nose. Fresh and
bright in the mouth, with creamy apple and pear flavors complemented by hints
of marzipan and wet stone. Finishes long and bright, with an herbal nuance and
a saline zippiness.
2007 Montenidoli Vernaccia di San Gimignano
Carato -- 89
($38) Dark straw-gold. Almond, hazelnut and vanilla on the
oak-dominated nose. Then rich and creamy on the palate, with ripe apple and
pear flavors complemented by caramel and herbal nuances. Finishes thick and
oaky, with very good length. Those who enjoy spicy, butterscotchy oak will rate
this higher than I have.
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